Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
